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Monthly Archives: March 2010

Pamplona

Hola!

I have managed to safely cross the Pyrenees AND continue walking after the ordeal! I say ordeal, but the experience was spectacular. I had two obstacles that made crossing the pass a little harder than it ought to be: 1) my own fault, I am carrying far too much for this trip. 18kgs, to be precise, when the recommended weight is 10% of  one´s body weight. That leaves me 11kgs over, and 2) it was incredibly windy in them thar hills. So windy, in fact that, with the excess weight of my bag, it was at times impossible to take even one step forward without waiting for the gust to ease.

Ascending the Pyrenees

Ascending the Pyrenees

Orisson

Orrison rest stop, 8km in, 500m up. Closed for two more days.

Pyrenees

Close to the top...

Approaching Spain

Getting cold on the Route de Napoléon

The view was amazing though, and I stopped up the top to make a sandwich with some roquefort and pur porc sausage that I´d bought in St Jean (on bread with little bits of fig, yum!). Photos will have to describe the rest. The Internet at the hostels can be quite expensive.

Roncesvalles was the  destination after the Pyrenees, we arrived at 3 and the hostel didn´t open until 4. There is nothing else in Roncesvalles (other than some churches, a bar and a monastery- no houses?), so we sat, sore feet, sore backs, sore legs, and waited to ´check in.´  Later that evening me and the other ´pilgrims´ joined in the bar to eat the 9 euro pilgrim menu. Bean soup, beef stew, and a tub of yogurt with wine and bread… was ok.

Roncesvalles

Accommodation on the first night...

The Camino

My friend "Ko from Korea" out in front.

On leaving Roncevalles, I jettisoned a baton (walking stick that I´d purchased only the day before) an airline blanket, a belt, and a copy of To Kill A Mockingbird. This was not enough, and after purchasing food for 2 days (nothing open in Spain on Sunday, I was told – have since found this not to be true).

Approaching Larrasoaña

Ko approaching Larrasoaña

I have kinda met a group of people and we have walked together for the last 2 days, still with heavy pack, thought some of them seem to be in such a rush, and tend to race each other out of bed, and then speed along at pace. In keeping up with them, I have missed a bit, and so will fall behind tomorrow. I will be posting a good deal of weight from my pack to Santiago. I will make do with a lot less, and have a much more pleasant walk I´m sure. I don´t´care how much it costs me to send my stuff on, my shoulders canna cope no more, I will be waiting at at the doors of the post office tomorrow morning promptly at 8. It´s been 62 kms with hardcore heavy bag. I feel I´ve earnt the right to wear the same pants day and night for the next 30 month.

Pamplona

Camp in Pamps

I am now off to check out Pamplona with some fellow pilgrims and yah. Early start tomorrow.

Love Mark

 

Du coeur du chemin…

Greetings from Basque country!

Seems a little too early to write, but after a week of near perfect (for the time of year) weather in Vienna it has decided to turn and now it’s raining.

St Jean Pied de Port

Wet, cobbled street of SJPP

I haven’t begun the Camino; I decided to rest up for the day and stay the night in St Jean Pied de Port. It’s a wonder there’s not more tourists here – I’d imagine a place like this would be heaving. Maybe all French towns are this pretty? It’s the only one (other than Paris) that I’ve been to.

The Symbol of the Way of St James

The Symbol of the Camino de Santiago

I’m starting the Camino (way) in St Jean: Au Coeur du Chemin (The Heart of the Way?). St Jean is at the confluence of 3 of the main routes in France before taking the last 774km to Santiago de Compostella. This part should take between 4-6 weeks on foot. Though I have a tendency to want to linger in beautiful places (today is a case in point) and this could affect the finish date.

Tonight I’m staying in a very comfortable municipal alberge. I’m not sure that the quality is maintained along the way – it would be too easy. Tomorrow morning I’ll rise early to cross the Pyrenees. This little baptism of fire will take me on a 1300m climb over 19km to Roncevalles, crossing into Spain about two thirds of the way along.

Basque Country

My official starting point?

Anyway, I’ll have more to say next time I write (get access to the Internet).

I’m sorry I didn’t get to say goodbye to all of you before I left – the lead up to departure wasn’t without incident, though, and I’ll be able to say ‘hello!’ to you when I get back…