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Monthly Archives: September 2011

I love Lisboa!

Arrival, Lisbon

Arrival, Lisbon

I absolutely recommend the fast train from Oporto to Lisbon (and back). Although I later found out that the ‘slow’ train only takes about 20 minutes longer over a 3 hour trip… Still, I’m sure the fast train was more comfortable. I arrived in Lisbon at about 8ish, I think. I didn’t know how to get to my hostel as I had been relying on the data roaming capabilities of my iPhone which somehow failed. Thankfully, I had printed of my booking confirmation and after the fourth time looking up the hostel’s address, I noticed the ‘directions to hostel’ section. Phew. A simple ride in the metro and voila! there I was in the best hostel I’d ever stayed in. Right in the centre of all the action in chic surroundings laden with backpackers 10 years my junior.

Placa do Comercio

Placa do Comercio

They were serving dinner in the hostel that night so I put my name down. Normally I like to explore and find somewhere cool to eat, but it was getting late and I was in the middle of tourist central, so decided to meet with the other guests. Having left the retelling of Portugal too late, I can’t even remember what dinner was. It involved rice, and some tasty, but non-descript chicken… Then all the kids wanted to go out. The party is in the street in Lisbon, and the interior of a bar serves only to… well, serve drinks. The party on the street is that much more difficult due to the hilly nature of Lisbon, and the fact that all the streets are cobbled with marble. Very cool, though, and lot’s of fun!

Slow to wake up the next day, I forced myself to take the tram to Belen. There are two things of note in Belem (well there’s more but I wasn’t in museum mode): the home of the Portuguese tart, and a tower built in the water. They’re not called Portuguese tarts in Portugal, they’re called ‘Pastel de nata’ vaguely ‘cream cake’ and in their place of origin ‘pasteis de Belem.’ They’re just as good wherever you go in Lisbon, but in the tart factory of origin, they’re warm, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon and served on a plate to be eaten, standing, amongst a throng of salivating sweet-tooths. I had to queue for seconds. After sufficient touristing for one day, I went out for coffee, and got caught in torrential rain, wearing canvas shoes and not carrying an umbrella. I waited under an awning that directed the inundation directly towards my feet for nearly an hour, all the while thinking that the rain would ease in the next minute or so. It finally did, but not before I was so frustrated with waiting that I made a dash that saturated everything…

The sites of Belem

The sites of Belem

Portuguese Tart

Pasteis de Belem

As I walked back to the hostel dejected, wet, and tired, I passed an Indian restaurant. Given the Portuguese were in India over 500 years ago, I thought I’d be in for a spicy, heart-warming, stodgy treat. Vindaloo is, afterall, of Portuguese origin. Apparently. That’s what they say. Though it would appear the portuguese didn’t bring back any spices. Nor any Indians. For an Indian restaurant, there was an obvious lack of Indian folk. An elephant in the room, if you will (elephants were brought back to Portugal, I’m reading a novel based on this fact…). And the only Indian dish was “curry.” For the Australians reading, it was basically chicken with some Keen’s curry stirred through some cream. But it was pretty good after the hour of soaking I received in the dark street’s of Lisbon.

Car

My favourite shot in Lisbon

The next day I went on a little tram trip, Lisbon’s streets and trams are super beautiful! Actually, I bought a travel pass, which includes use of a famous lift… I was really only on a photo tour, so I’ll tell that story in pictures:

Lisbon!

Lisbon!

Elevation

Elevation

Decadence and view

Decadence and view

Just gotta go!

As I dashed out the door trying to avoid issues with my flight, I had the brainwave of grabbing my spray jacket. I was soon to find out that the rain in Spain falls mainly in… Portugal. My flight was from Barcelona to Oporto but I was to stay that night in Lisbon, though having arrived fairly early, I had the morning to kill in Oporto. I negotiated the Metro, bypassing the centre of town to head straight to the Port (wine) caves (which are one metro stop from the city). I had to find some lunch before checking out the Port (wine), often a tricky exercise in touristland… I chose the most popular area (!) along the river and walked the length looking for a restaurant. Finally satisfied with the one the appeared to be full of locals, I tried to ask if I could sit on one of the vacant tables outside. Instead I was lead to the back corner of the restaurant to a seat in which I’d have to move every time someone needed to use the bathroom. I said (in Spanish ‘cos my brian’s second language section only has one channel) that I’d prefer to sit outside, but that wasn’t possible… It was a table of 8, after all. Ok, I get it, but it was clearly about to rain! Instead I went to another restaurant.

Crossing the bridge to (Port) Wine town

Crossing the bridge to (Port) Wine town

Just to prove I was there

And here's one of me.

I dunno if that was a bad move? I chose the next best looking restaurant (the one with local looking types = dark hair and eyes), ordered a Francesinha and, moments later arrived a tour group of English retirees:

Wife: “Look at what he’s (me) having, Alf, I think that’s the fransheena.”

Husband: “Yeah but he’s (me) got the egg, it looks disgusting.”

Ferral looking, but super satisfying Francesinha

Ferral looking, but super satisfying Francesinha.

W: “Should we see if they’ve got a ham and cheese toastie?”

H: “Ummmmmm, Maybe?”

W: “Hmmm, I had a ham and cheese toastie yesterday, let’s be adventurous”

… There couldn’t be anything more English than the Francesinha of Oporto… It’s a sandwich (white bread, no crusts) filled with all manner of meat: a minute (reference to time, not size) steak, two kinds of sausage, ham… Covered in melted cheese covered in a beer and tomato sauce. You can accompany it with chips (swimming in the sauce) and upsize with an egg on top. No?

Ham and cheese toastie + steak, sausage, cheese and beer gravy ≠ adventurous. Does it? I won’t judge. I was just listening in ‘cos they were talking about ME(!) Well, my meal…

Anyways, I paid up and waddled, the Francesinha is FILLLLLING especially with an egg and chips, up to the Port (wine) caves after lunch. Oddly, to me at least, all the wine companies had English names. After a very enjoyable (I like Port) tasting, I asked why? The answer: the English, having no wine of their own, set up shop in Oporto. Simple. In retrospect, fortified wine does seem to be a peculiarly English thing.

Finishing off the last drop of a Taylors 2007 Vintage

Finishing off the last drop of a Taylors 2007 Vintage. Oh my GAWWWD! Yum!

As it was time to make my way to the station to catch the train to Lisbon, the rain started. At least I had thought of my spray jacket earlier that morning.

Huh!?

Oh yeah, at the bookshop in the main train station in Oporto there was a huge poster with a (stock) photo of a CityRail (Sydney) train!

And I landed in Lisbon later that night.

If you do read, comment!

Flyin’ Ryanair

No Ryanair journey is complete without a good rant; even the best prepared among us will encounter problems. I did my best to avoid frustration, waking with one hour’s grace so that I would arrive at the airport early and if  confronted with the inevitable mind-numbing problem I could solve it without resorting to paying a ‘supplement;’ I measured and weighed my bag at home, all good. Arrived early, queued, and waited in the check-in line… An odd requirement, as Ryanair requires you to check in online or will charge you 40€ for a boarding pass. I get to the front of the queue and find that as a non-EU citizen (still), I have to have my passport verified at another counter. Apparently the staff at Ryanair are so mechanically trained that it is necessary for a specialist to match the name on the passport with the name on the boarding pass. Oh! and they also have to compare the photo with the passenger. Some genius has determined that this tricky L-shaped transaction is more efficient at another queue. In Barcelona that is,  in Oporto, the check-in folk are multitalented, so I discovered after wandering about looking for the special passport check desk on the return flight.

While half the team at Ryanair (Barcelona) are incompetent of performing passport checks, they are well equipped to measure oversized bags, promoting discontent and preholiday stress by standing over nervous passengers as they try to squeeze their bag in the rigid 55x40x20cm measuring device. Of course, there needs to be a limit to the size of cabin baggage when nobody opts to take the 40€ option of stowing their luggage in the fuselage…

The bit that stung me though, was unavoidable. I don’t understand how an online business can get away with charging a fee for processing a credit card transaction. Ryanair charge per sector, not per transaction, so you get whacked with the credit card processing fee twice on a return Journey. I dunno, it seems fraudulent to me when some companies charge a 1% transaction fee for online purchases and Ryanair charged me almost 15% of the transaction, but doesn’t really quote this in the cost of the flight.

When you finally board, there’s the additional commerce. Everyone does it, I guess, but Ryanair has their cabin crew selling something different every 15 minutes, including (!!!) “smokeless cigarettes that you can use anywhere on the plane!” The overhead lockers are also covered in advertising, though all the ads were the same, so they kind of blended in, and I can’t remember what was being advertised.

Ryanair self-styles as the “world’s favourite airline,” patting themselves on the back for arriving on time as if this isn’t an expectation and, in their onflight magazine they publish stats about how good they are. Interestingly, they include a lost baggage per passenger statistic, comparing themselves to airlines that include free checked baggage… More interesting would be a lost baggage per bag stat. Anyway.

I arrived in Oporto safe and on time, “snaps” to Ryanair, on the return trip we arrived late, but Ryanair still played its celebratory on-time arrival jingle?

To be honest it wasn’t that bad, and it’s particularly good if you like being patronised. And you can’t reserve seats, but nobody clambers towards the exit row so I had plenty of space despite being one of the last to board.