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Travelling around
A favourite nickname for me from some of my high school mates, well… one (you know who you are) has somehow became my parallel name in Europe. After about 20 years since may name was melodised into Markuspandelakus, and after 10 years delving into my roots and finally coming up with Greek nationality Mark Pandelakis has morphed, via markuspandelakis to Markos Pantelakis in my new Greek passport!

Ten years since I first wanted to, almost to the day, I have settled in the EU. Spain, more specifically. And two months after moving into my Madrid digs, and having finally sorted out most of the administrative hula-hooping (made more difficult through a combination of my own language inadequacy and a seemingly inflexible… let’s call it bureaucracy), and with Brexit and Trump getting repetitive, I’ve taken to augment my job search and part-time evening job teaching english with a documentation of my experience as an ESL (español second language) Australian Greek in Spain.
Let me put my thoughts in order as, the previous two months has provided so much material, I’m not sure where to start. Or whether to simply move on…
I have a feeling some of you are subscribed to this blog, but with the last post published some 5 years ago it surely hasn’t been blocking up your inbox. That’s about to change. Feel free to unsubscribe if my banal archiving becomes too much.
I put the shortness of this post down to a mantra a wise au pair once said that I use when trying to motivate a new venture, “well begun is half done”.
Hasta la proxima!
Met up with my food partner on Saturday morning. We had a huge day planned and started at Casa Iberica, a supplier of all things Iberian and South American, at 9 am. Turns out we had no reason to actually start at Iberica because the end goal was home made pasta, but some morcilla was purchased for storage. You never know when you’ll need some emergency black pudding.

Casa Iberica - 25 Johnston Street Fitzroy - for all your paella, pimenton and pork needs. And much much more.
Next stop Mediterranean Wholesalers, a huge supermarket dedicated to all things Italian. Again, probably not necessary given we could have sourced our flour and eggs anywhere, but certainly worth a look if only to drool over the vast selection of parmesan. On the walk from Spain to Italy we had decided on a trio of pasta sauces, that was further refined to three pesto style sauces – no pots and pans, just a food processor. We needed parmesan for the basic pesto genovese, and kefalogreviera, a white parmesan style hard cheese from Greece for a rocket and walnut pesto.
Impulsively, I also bought a neapolitana, a drip coffee maker that is, quite simply, the bomb.
A little further up Sydney Road, and after a period of confusion it was decided that dessert should be in keeping with the Italian theme. So we bought profiteroles.
Unfortunately, these babies didn’t make it to dessert having been decimated before egg had been broken into flour to make the pasta dough.
I’ve always made my pasta dough in a food processor with 3 eggs and 2 cups of flour. Then added more flour until the mixture is fairly dry. We made 1 batch of angel hair and two batches of fettuccine from that mix.
And the feast:
Should I post the recipes?
I absolutely recommend the fast train from Oporto to Lisbon (and back). Although I later found out that the ‘slow’ train only takes about 20 minutes longer over a 3 hour trip… Still, I’m sure the fast train was more comfortable. I arrived in Lisbon at about 8ish, I think. I didn’t know how to get to my hostel as I had been relying on the data roaming capabilities of my iPhone which somehow failed. Thankfully, I had printed of my booking confirmation and after the fourth time looking up the hostel’s address, I noticed the ‘directions to hostel’ section. Phew. A simple ride in the metro and voila! there I was in the best hostel I’d ever stayed in. Right in the centre of all the action in chic surroundings laden with backpackers 10 years my junior.
They were serving dinner in the hostel that night so I put my name down. Normally I like to explore and find somewhere cool to eat, but it was getting late and I was in the middle of tourist central, so decided to meet with the other guests. Having left the retelling of Portugal too late, I can’t even remember what dinner was. It involved rice, and some tasty, but non-descript chicken… Then all the kids wanted to go out. The party is in the street in Lisbon, and the interior of a bar serves only to… well, serve drinks. The party on the street is that much more difficult due to the hilly nature of Lisbon, and the fact that all the streets are cobbled with marble. Very cool, though, and lot’s of fun!
Slow to wake up the next day, I forced myself to take the tram to Belen. There are two things of note in Belem (well there’s more but I wasn’t in museum mode): the home of the Portuguese tart, and a tower built in the water. They’re not called Portuguese tarts in Portugal, they’re called ‘Pastel de nata’ vaguely ‘cream cake’ and in their place of origin ‘pasteis de Belem.’ They’re just as good wherever you go in Lisbon, but in the tart factory of origin, they’re warm, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon and served on a plate to be eaten, standing, amongst a throng of salivating sweet-tooths. I had to queue for seconds. After sufficient touristing for one day, I went out for coffee, and got caught in torrential rain, wearing canvas shoes and not carrying an umbrella. I waited under an awning that directed the inundation directly towards my feet for nearly an hour, all the while thinking that the rain would ease in the next minute or so. It finally did, but not before I was so frustrated with waiting that I made a dash that saturated everything…
As I walked back to the hostel dejected, wet, and tired, I passed an Indian restaurant. Given the Portuguese were in India over 500 years ago, I thought I’d be in for a spicy, heart-warming, stodgy treat. Vindaloo is, afterall, of Portuguese origin. Apparently. That’s what they say. Though it would appear the portuguese didn’t bring back any spices. Nor any Indians. For an Indian restaurant, there was an obvious lack of Indian folk. An elephant in the room, if you will (elephants were brought back to Portugal, I’m reading a novel based on this fact…). And the only Indian dish was “curry.” For the Australians reading, it was basically chicken with some Keen’s curry stirred through some cream. But it was pretty good after the hour of soaking I received in the dark street’s of Lisbon.
The next day I went on a little tram trip, Lisbon’s streets and trams are super beautiful! Actually, I bought a travel pass, which includes use of a famous lift… I was really only on a photo tour, so I’ll tell that story in pictures:
As I dashed out the door trying to avoid issues with my flight, I had the brainwave of grabbing my spray jacket. I was soon to find out that the rain in Spain falls mainly in… Portugal. My flight was from Barcelona to Oporto but I was to stay that night in Lisbon, though having arrived fairly early, I had the morning to kill in Oporto. I negotiated the Metro, bypassing the centre of town to head straight to the Port (wine) caves (which are one metro stop from the city). I had to find some lunch before checking out the Port (wine), often a tricky exercise in touristland… I chose the most popular area (!) along the river and walked the length looking for a restaurant. Finally satisfied with the one the appeared to be full of locals, I tried to ask if I could sit on one of the vacant tables outside. Instead I was lead to the back corner of the restaurant to a seat in which I’d have to move every time someone needed to use the bathroom. I said (in Spanish ‘cos my brian’s second language section only has one channel) that I’d prefer to sit outside, but that wasn’t possible… It was a table of 8, after all. Ok, I get it, but it was clearly about to rain! Instead I went to another restaurant.
I dunno if that was a bad move? I chose the next best looking restaurant (the one with local looking types = dark hair and eyes), ordered a Francesinha and, moments later arrived a tour group of English retirees:
Wife: “Look at what he’s (me) having, Alf, I think that’s the fransheena.”
Husband: “Yeah but he’s (me) got the egg, it looks disgusting.”
W: “Should we see if they’ve got a ham and cheese toastie?”
H: “Ummmmmm, Maybe?”
W: “Hmmm, I had a ham and cheese toastie yesterday, let’s be adventurous”
… There couldn’t be anything more English than the Francesinha of Oporto… It’s a sandwich (white bread, no crusts) filled with all manner of meat: a minute (reference to time, not size) steak, two kinds of sausage, ham… Covered in melted cheese covered in a beer and tomato sauce. You can accompany it with chips (swimming in the sauce) and upsize with an egg on top. No?
Ham and cheese toastie + steak, sausage, cheese and beer gravy ≠ adventurous. Does it? I won’t judge. I was just listening in ‘cos they were talking about ME(!) Well, my meal…
Anyways, I paid up and waddled, the Francesinha is FILLLLLING especially with an egg and chips, up to the Port (wine) caves after lunch. Oddly, to me at least, all the wine companies had English names. After a very enjoyable (I like Port) tasting, I asked why? The answer: the English, having no wine of their own, set up shop in Oporto. Simple. In retrospect, fortified wine does seem to be a peculiarly English thing.
As it was time to make my way to the station to catch the train to Lisbon, the rain started. At least I had thought of my spray jacket earlier that morning.

Oh yeah, at the bookshop in the main train station in Oporto there was a huge poster with a (stock) photo of a CityRail (Sydney) train!
And I landed in Lisbon later that night.
If you do read, comment!